Experimental IPAs Reinforce Widmer Objectives

If you follow Widmer's Rotator IPA Series, you know they have released four beers during the past 15 or so months: X-114, Falconer, O'Ryely and Spiced. The Rotator Series is not about Widmer trying to find an identity. Far from it. These are short release, experimental beers. They are all about variety.

There will be another Rotator IPA in the near future, Captain Shaddock. An early rendition of Shaddock was poured at the 2010 Oregon Brewers Festival. It's an interesting beer. To create a unique citrus character common to some of the most popular IPAs, Widmer brewers use grapefruit peel. You can be the judge. And soon.

The experimental IPAs lean on the same base as this one

But the good folks at Widmer have a lot more going on than just the Rotator Series. They just announced the launch of four experimental IPAs: X-430, X-431, X-443 and X-467. These beers all use the same base recipe as the original Rotator IPA, X-114; but each new beer showcases the unique qualities of an experimental hop variety.

If you aren't aware, there's quite a bit of hop research being done at the moment, much of it at Oregon State University. Brewers are looking for hops that provide specific flavors and aromas. Researchers are developing new varieties that meet the bill. There are already some great designer hops out there, with more on the way.

With respect to the experimental IPAs, Widmer sent out a press release outlining the flavors present in each beer. I'm not going to delve into the details because expectations can be a dubious business. If you go down to the Gasthaus, which I intend to do in the next day or so, try ignoring the tasting guides. Taste the beers and come up with your own version of what you taste. Then compare notes with the table tent.

The IPAs will be available at the Gasthaus Pub through the end of the month, depending on demand. You'll be able to get a flight of the four or enjoy them by the pint.

Some perspective
If you want to understand why Widmer has embarked on an aggressive experimental program over the last couple of years, you need some perspective you won't find in the official press release announcing these experimental IPAs. You also won't find that perspective on many blogs. That's because it's all too easy to simply copy a press release and post it. But never mind.

The Craft Brew Alliance (CBA) annual report released this week shows what's driving change. The CBA is represented by the brands Widmer, Kona and Redhook. Overall sales were up from 2010 and net profits nearly doubled from $1.7 million to $3.2 million. There's a somewhat rosier picture in the gross numbers, which include a one-time profit of $6.5 million on the sale of Fulton Street (Goose Island Beer) Brewery.

The problem for the CBA is that Widmer's longtime core beer, Hefeweizen wheat beer, is losing market share. Widmer segment shipments declined by 6,000 barrels in 2011, while Redhook and (especially) Kona numbers increased. The decline of Hefeweizen has to be a concern. It is, in some sense, the beer that made Widmer famous. It's been around a long time with a good following. Until now.

Big growth in 2011

Why is Hefeweizen slumping? I suspect it has a lot to do with changing pallets and the rising popularity of the IPA style, now the most popular craft style in the country. Competition is apparently also a factor, as there are light craft beers, some of them wheat beers, competing in the same space as Hefeweizen. Too many fresh, interesting beers can be a problem.

The solution for Widmer is clear enough. If your core beer is being attacked by the popularity of hoppier beers, go on the offensive and start turning out those kinds of beers yourself. Create buzz with experimental beers and rotating special releases. Lead the way in creative brewing and marketing. This is what they're doing and it is driving a renewed awareness of the Widmer brand. Pretty cool.

Update: As part of pushing its renewed identity, the CBA has changed it's Nasdaq ticker symbol from HOOK to BREW. This completes the rebranding effort that began in January when the company name changed from Craft Brewers Alliance to Craft Brew Alliance. Just more evidence that they are on the move. There's more here.

Widmer Keeps Things Interesting

The other day I mentioned in the comments of another blog that I did not attend a recent media tasting at Widmer. Not invited. The fact is, this blog hasn't been around that long and I'm not as well connected as I would like to be. I'm working on fixing that, but it takes time.

There was a fair amount of commentary around the blogs about Widmer's new beers...Dark Saison and Spiced IPA. I made a trip down to the Gasthaus last night to check out the new beers. The Dark Saison has been on tap at my athletic club for several weeks so I'd already tasted it. The IPA just became available.

Spiced IPA

As noted, the Dark Saison is on tap at my club. Yep. We drink a bit of beer after racquetball and have been doing so for years. This is at Lloyd Athletic Club next to Lloyd Center. It's a sort of private tavern for some members. And the club has a longstanding connection to Widmer, so I guess we get some beers before they are in common release.

Anyway, Dark Saison is brewed in the classic French farmhouse style, with about 10 percent wheat and some dark malts that provide color, but not much backbone. They use Wyeast Saison yeast. The beer has a citrus character on the pallet, thanks to the Saaz hops. I liked this beer when I first tried it several weeks ago and I had the same reaction last night. Good stuff.

Spiced IPA is the fourth entry in Widmer's Rotator IPA series. Just to jog everyone's memory, the order goes like this: X-114 IPA, Falconer IPA, O'Ryely IPA (made with rye) and now Spiced IPA.The Rotator IPA series is intended to give Widmer brewers a chance to experiment within the style. It's a great idea.

Spiced IPA is made by blending in black tea and unspecified spices after fermentation. It comes across as a bright and marginally spicy beer. The specs say 70 IBUs, but hop aroma, flavor and bitterness seem slightly subdued.

Frankly speaking, I have liked the odd-numbered Rotator releases...X-114 and O'Ryely. I did not like Falconer and I do not particularly care for Spiced IPA. I'll taste it again when it appears on tap at the club and see if my reaction is the same. I suspect a lot of people will like this beer. Give Widmer credit. The approach is definitely inventive and unique. It just isn't my cup of tea. (Insert laugh)

Widmer Impresses
When I was putting together the entry on Widmer Brothers Brewing for my eBook last summer, I concluded they were producing a lot of good beers, but perhaps falling behind some of the smaller breweries in terms of experimentation. That section will now need to be rewritten.

The tap list when I visited the Gasthaus back in July was comprised of eight beers, plus a couple of seasonal selections. Last night's list had 14 beers, including some you won't see around town. The beer list and the newly released beers suggest that Widmer is back in the groove, continuing to produce the great beers they're known for while pursuing experimental projects that will lead to bigger and better things.